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MAINTENANCE THIS MONTH- May
 
Key words for May are... "plant", "water", "mulch" and "deadhead"!

LAWN MAINTENANCE: Aerate and overseed thin patches, if necessary. Adjust mower a little higher to allow grass to grow a little higher. This will help your lawn resist heat stress.

UC GUIDE TO HEALTHY LAWNS: Want to know what type of lawn you have and how to maintain it? Want to put in a new lawn or renovate an old one? Need lawn pest info? The new UC Guide to Healthy Lawns is an excellent resource. So is the UC "Lawn Watering Guide for California".


SHADE TREES: Having any tree concerns? Call a certified arborist for help.


MULCH: Add a thick layer of mulch to beds, but keep mulch a few inches away from main trunks or stems. A layer at least 4 inches thick is required for good weed suppression.

PRUNE: Prune spring-blooming plants right after they finish blooming.

FEED: lawn, roses and citrus if you didn't feed in April. Feed spring bloomers when they finish blooming. Feed blueberries with acid fertilizer.

BACKYARD ORCHARD TREES, SHRUBS & VINES: Wrap fruit tree trunks with sticky tape or Tanglefoot to control ants.

The following links to the University of California Backyard Orchard care sheets will keep you on track and on your way to a tasty harvest:

Almond
Apple

Apricot

Avocado Berries
Cherry Chestnut Citrus
Fig Filbert (Hazelnut)
Grape (table) Kiwifruit Loquat Nectarine Olive
Peach Pear Pecan Persimmon Pistachio
Plum & Prune Pomegranate Quince Walnut  

Citrus are heavy nitrogen-feeders. An application of nitrogen in late winter/early spring will provide adequate nutrients for flower and fruit set.



RECOMMENDED FERTILIZER APPLICATION RATES:


NITROGEN (N): regular application required
1 to 2 year old tree:
2 tablespoons nitrogen fertilizer 3 to 4 times per year or 1/10 lb. nitrogen fertilizer per year
3-year-old tree: 1/4 lb. nitrogen
applied to dripline before watering
4+ year old tree: 1 lb. actual nitrogen per tree per year. So, if your nitrogen fertilizer contains 33% actual nitrogen (33-0-0), you will need to apply 3 lbs. Some references recommend dividing applications into thirds, totaling 3 applications per year (early spring, summer and fall). If you follow that recommendation, make sure you avoid feeding oranges and grapefruit during summer to avoid thick rinds, lower juice content and re-greening of Valencia oranges.
PHOSPHORUS (P): 1 lb. phosphate per tree every 3 to 4 years per mature tree
POTASSIUM (K): as needed (deficiency: general leaf pattern begins as a yellowing of the tips and margins, which then gets broader. Necrotic areas and spotting can develop on the leaves) 2.5 to 5 lbs. potassium per mature tree per year for 2 years if deficiency is noted.
MAGNESIUM (Mg): as needed (deficiency noted by yellowing between veins of older leaves followed by dropping.)
ZINC: as needed (deficiency symptom is "mottle-leaf", exhibited by "small terminal leaves with mottling between large leaf veins". Apply late-winter or early spring foliar spray (carefully follow label directions)
IRON: as needed (deficiency symptom is yellowing between large leaf veins... i.e. interveinal chlorosis)

foliar spray (follow label directions)
MANGANESE (Mn):
as needed (deficiency: young leaves turn light green between veins, often more noticeable on tree's north side).

Combination "micronutrient sprays" are available at your local nursery if you suspect multiple deficiencies.
A specialized citrus fertilizer or "citrus food" likely contains all necessary macro- and micro-nutrients.

References: California Master Gardener Handbook and the following books:

 
  LanceWalheim.com...
This guy literally wrote the book on citrus!
   

IRRIGATION: Adjust your irrigation controller for warmer weather. We're getting into the dry season, so chances are if it isn't a native plant, it will need supplemental watering. The goal is to water as deeply and infrequently as possible. Shallow, frequent watering (i.e. 10 min/day, 7 days/wk) is a no no because you'll end up with shallow root systems that need frequent watering and conditions that encourage disease.


Now is a good time to check your drip system for problems. If you're like me, you've managed to chop many of those long tubes into penne pasta-sized bits...


ANNUALS: Cool-season annuals (pansies, primroses, etc.) are starting to fade from our warmer temps. It's time to shift into "summer color" mode. Think impatiens, petunias, zinnias and more.


PERENNIALS: Deadhead blooming perennials regularly to stimulate continued blooming!


ROSES: Watch for aphids. Blast with water to control aphids. Deadhead regularly. Pinch off tiny side buds on hybrid teas, leaving a single, central bud. Prune non-repeat bloomers after blooms fade.

WEEDS: See the UC Weed Gallery for proper identification and the UC IPM Pest Notes for how to manage them.


PESTS: Slugs, snails and aphids, oh my!.Visit the fabulous UC IPM website for control measures. Here are a few timely links to pest pages:

Slugs & Snails: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
Aphids: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html

Mosquitoes:
Eliminate bodies of stagnant water where possible and use mosquito dunks where not. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7451.html
Ants: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7411.html
Earwigs: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74102.html


Want to see what the GOOD GUYS look like?


WE ALL KNOW COMPOST HAPPENS... but is it happening in your yard? Check out Project Compost!

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